Monday, October 19, 2026

Dawera Island, Shit Hot

The Forgotten Islands are called that because they are "forgotten" from Indonesian culture.  Much of it has disappeared.  Today, in between our dives, we are going to visit the village of Gereja on Dawera Island to reclaim some of that culture.  But first we dive!  




I had a nice chat with Tim over breakfast.  I love to ask people about their childhood and what made them who they are today.  He is from Michigan but his parents were missionaries and he grew up in Japan exploring the mountain and ocean.  He went to school with a lot of military kids in Japan.  He attended Hope College then did graduate work at Harvard.  He knows so much about birds and is a fabulous storyteller.  He told me about a famous biologist, naturalist and author Edward O. Wilson.  I need to read some of his books.

Graham said that the name of today's dive site is "Shit Hot" because one of the previous times he's been diving here, one of his buddies said that it was so good, it was "Shit Hot".

And he wasn't kidding.

The corals were gorgeous and there were tons of colorful fish on the reef.  We also saw a big school of barracuda right at the end.  I don't usually swim into big schools of fish, but I did this time.  I was so inspired.

I even took my Go Pro in on the second dive.  I'm not sure I will have anything usable, but I tried.

On dive three, Dennis pointed out a sponge spawning.  It was so cool with what looked like cloudy puffs of smoke circling around.  

We have been hitting the no deco limits on almost every dive since we are on air, not nitrox.  I always make sure I am in the clear before surfacing.

After the third dive, we did the village tour.  We took the skiffs over and walked past a cemetery before being greeted by schoolchildren.  Ellen and Zafer were chose to represent us and one at a time, a child held their hand and sang this song directly to them.  It was mezmerizing.  Then the group sang, played flutes and drums and danced.







We then walked through the village, saw their "mini museum" and the beautiful beach where they do group guided meditations and where they make sopi, the local alcoholic drink.  Not very sanitary!  

Extracting the sopi:


A real sopi drinker:



Then they laid out a beautiful spread of snacks and treats.  There were a few little trinkets to purchase if we wanted.  They also had a huge monument to the missionary in front of the church.




We met at least one group on the island that was visiting in a "HomeStay".  The locals have been protecting the area for a long time which is why the reef is so healthy.  There is this big statue/lookout they used to spot any incoming enemies.  It was very artistic and in the shape of a conch shell.



Information from Graham:

After today's village visit here's the text I shared about the island group and the very simple and quite beautiful philosophical concept they've had in this area. 

The Forgotten Islands is an area in the far south Eastern corner of Indonesia. They are not only forgotten, some of the islands were destroyed of their high value crops by the Dutch so no one else had access to nutmeg. On Kei, Damer, Moa, Teun, Nila and Serua tens of thousands of nutmeg trees were destroyed, despite heavy protests by the population. Nutmeg had always been an important means of barter in local trade. The Kisarese people for example had a flourishing barter trade in slaves, mostly originating from Timor, with the inhabitants of these nutmeg producing islands. The lives of locals were heavily affected as they no longer had many goods to trade.

In The Forgotten Islands; particularly the in the Babar region and Dawera and Dawelor there is an ancient concept known as Mormorsol.

What is Mormorsol?

Mormorsol is a traditional philosophical concept from the indigenous communities. It refers to the physical, material body of a human being, which is viewed as temporary and mortal.

In local cosmology, a human being is considered a complete cosmic entity only when two core elements are unified.  Those two core elements are Mormorsol & Dmeir:

  • Mormorsol: The physical body, closely associated with vital life forces like the heartbeat, breath, and blood.
  • Dmeir: The spiritual aspect, representing the unique, eternal soul, mind, and character of an individual.

The Boat Metaphor as used in The Forgotten Islands

The community traditionally uses a maritime or seafaring metaphor to describe human existence:

  • The mormorsol (the body) is conceptualized as the boat itself.
  • The dmeir ( the soul or character) is viewed as the helmsman or navigator.

According to this philosophy, life is an ongoing voyage, and a meaningful journey can only truly begin when the boat (body) and its helmsman (soul) operate in perfect harmony. 

This individual concept is also extended to describe the structure of families and entire villages, which are often organized and symbolized as collective communal boats.


At dinner, I learned that Mariasol is not only an environmentalist running and NGO, but she is also a presenter on Italian television.  She has been filming some little clips putting together a story.  I need to find out where I can see some of her work.


Hot List

32 - Reticulidia fungia



33 - Elysia sp



34 - Hypselodoris bullockii



35 - Tambja gabrielae



36 - Philinopsis gardineri



37 - Chromodoris lochi



38 - Samla bicolor



39 - Caloria indica



40 - Plocamopherus sp.



41 - Favorinus sp.



42 - Trapania euryeia



43 - Marioniopsis elongoreticulata








Sunday, October 18, 2026

Disco Coconut

Today we are headed to Kelapa.  Kelapa Island (Pulau Kelapa) is a small island located in the Sermata Islands group, which belongs to the Maluku Province of Indonesia.

Kelapa means coconut.


We followed the updates on an ID for "the alien" from yesterday.  My post in the ID Please (Marine Creature Identification) Facebook Group got 879 likes and so many comments, the admin shut down the comments.  I also got some activity on iNaturalist.

The first dive was called Milanisti.  It was so gorgeous and we found many nudi species.  I also found five different disco clams!


The dive crew gives us hot drinks after the dive.  Often with ginger or orange flavoring.

I tried using WiFi to look at my photos on my phone so that I didn't have to look at them on the camera screen running down the camera batteries.  I didn't want to open the camera since I still had plenty of battery left.  I forgot what a pain that is.  I have to use a different software product and it resets the time on my camera.  No thank you.

We had a long wait before the second dive, so I got to know my dive buddies on my skiff.  David, Dennis, Craig and Betsy are all members of the Houston Underwater Photography Society or HUPS.  They host a big Underwater Video Festival/Competition each year in April.  Maybe I'll go visit my friend Missy in Houston one year around that time and attend it.

After the third dive, I was singing "Love Will Keep Us Together" by Captain and Tennile to the crew.  They were laughing and then started singing "Obladee Obladah" by the Beatles back to me.

For afternoon snack, they served fried bananas.  My favorite Indonesian snack.  I swear I wanted to eat the whole platter.

There was a gorgeous sunset and some said they saw the green flash.  I didn't.  
 
I am altering my process so that I will look for the best pictures on distinct species and upload them to iNaturalist.  Only once the experts weigh in, I will compile my list and post them here.

Nudi Lineup

23 - Paradoris sp.



24 - Goniobranchus coi


25 - Phestilla sibogae


26 - Phyllidiopsis annae


27 - Hypselodoris tryoni


28 - Phyllidiella sp.


29 - Phyllidiella sp.


30 - Phyllidia varicosa


31 - Phyllidiopsis fissurata













Saturday, October 17, 2026

Recharge in Romang Nyata

I woke up very early in the morning.  We keep changing time zones so I'm not exactly sure how early it actually is.

It is so cool that we are connected to the internet.  I am able to ask the experts real time for help on the slug IDs.  Now I should be able to get them right the first time!  I have also linked to each post on iNaturalist so I can follow along to see if the ID changes over time.

Here is the itinerary for today:


I noticed that there is a poem on the bow so I looked it up.



These lines are from the concluding stanza of Henry Wadsworth Longfellow's famous 1849 poem, "The Building of the Ship".

In spite of rock and tempest's roar,
In spite of false lights on the shore,
Sail on, nor fear to breast the sea!
Our hearts, our hopes, are all with thee,
Our hearts, our hopes, our prayers, our tears,
Our faith triumphant o'er our fears,
Are all with thee,—are all with thee!

The book I am reading is set up with dates and they happen to be in October 2026.  Pretty much mimicking the exact dates of this charter.  Whoa.

I wore my nudibranch cover up dress and everyone wanted to know where I got it so I sent them to redbubble.com and apologized ahead of time… that site is a real rabbit hole.  It has merch for anything anyone is interested in.

The first dive was called “Biggie”.  I turned over a million rocks and found NOTHING.  But then... right at the end of the dive, Melki showed me this jellyfish like thing having a hard time swimming around.  It was completely transparent with some white frosting but we could see thru into it.  So freakin' weird.  My theory is that it came from down deep up to this area and couldn't swim in such shallow water.  I tried to take a picture of it, but it was too big... my camera couldn't focus.  I instead took pictures of it in chunks and let ChatGPT splice it together.  I wonder what the heck it is.  For now, I am calling it "The Alien".


I am tracking what comes out of my iNaturalist post, but I wasn't even sure where to put it in the Scientific Classification.

https://www.inaturalist.org/observations/409263425

Update: This is a Carinaria cristata, the largest heteropod, also known as sea elephants because of the trunk where their mouth is. They are snails that swim all their life.  Note that iNaturalist calls this a Glassy Nautilus.  It is now research grade and one of only three observations listed.

At the end of this dive, I went ever so slightly into deco.  I definitely cleared deco at the safety stop.  When I got up, I had a message about no altitude diving for five hours.  That's so annoying.  I also got a T1 battery low message.  Thank God I brought a spare battery.  

I worked with Han to change the battery on the transmitter.  He is so kind and speaks english so well.  I should be all set now for another 300 dives or so.  Woot!  Even if the transmitter does have a problem, I now have a little PSI gage on my regulator.

Just in case, I also checked my backup dive computer and I am totally fine.  Not in deco.

I turned Han on to iNaturalist.  He is already posting a picture of a walking shark.

Unfortunately, I left my strobes in Manual mode the whole 3ish hours between dives and they didn't really work right away on the second dive.  I was able to turn them all the way off for a while and then they worked pretty well.  And the battery change worked really well on the Transmitter.  It did its job just fine.

As I changed the batteries on my strobes and focus light, I notice that my housing camera started flashing that it was low on battery.  WTF?  I think I just changed it in July.  Oh well, I have a couple spares so I will just change it out.

At lunch, there was this crazy looking fan thing that keeps the flies away from the food.  It is so cool.  I feel like everyone needs one.

Here is a drone shot of us on the boat as I was getting out of the water.  I am usually the last one up.


At dinner they had the banana desert and I was so happy!

Quiet Queue

19 - Phyllodesmium briareum


20 - Phyllidia elegans


21 - Goniobranchus leopardus


22 - Nembrotha cristata






Wet in Wetar

Last night, the plan for today was written on the whiteboard:


We are diving air on this trip as the boat does not have Nitrox.  Therefore, our bottom time will not be as lenient as if we were on Nitrox.

There is a possibility we could do three dives today, but the plan is to only do two.

I woke up around 2am and decided to finish putting my camera together.  It was too much to finish it last night.

I am trying out my new checklist for getting the camera ready.  I never want to jump in again without my battery changed!

Early in the morning I went to set up my dive gear.

I have new fins and booties.  The booties are really buoyant so I brought my ankle weights.  I think I am going to need them for a little while.

On the first dive, I found several species of nudis.  The coral was so healthy.  We also came across a whitefin shark and a big octopus.

I put some water in my floats since that is what I was doing with my blackwater… but then I realized that my diopter was making the setup heavier.  I don’t need to put any water in my floats when I have my diopter on.  In fact, the rig is a bit too heavy.

At the end of the dive, Mariasol found a nautilus shell on the surface and brought it onto the liveaboard.  So cool and VERY lucky.

I am on boat two, but they went up when I still had a ton of bottom time, so I was invited to stick around with the third boat so I could get a longer dive in.  Yay!

Our dive guide Melki wears two different color fins.  It is pretty easy to find him.

I feel like my strobes are not lighting up the subject very well.  I need to keep tweaking.  Maybe I am also now used to the power of the Atom strobes so I feel like these MiniFlash2s aren’t so great.

On the second dive, the wrist strap on my backup dive computer that I mounted on my float broke.  Luckily I noticed exactly when it detached and I saved it and put it in the pocket which hangs off my BC.  Well, the computer itself keeps on working.

The crew has the cutest habit.  Whenever a skiff leaves, they cheer.  And then when we come back, they cheer again.  It is quite uplifting.

In the afternoon, a huge pod of spinner dolphins came alongside the boat and did some major tricks for us.  Jumping and Splashing.  It was really fun!

We also had a DJ and Alvi and Mariasol were club dancing on the bow.

It was pretty smoky on the site we pulled into for the night dive.  It was mucky and rocky but we found some cool slugs.

Nudi Species

1 - Phyllidiella sp.


2 - Goniobranchus geometricus

3 - Thuridilla sp.

4 - Antonietta sp. 1

5 - Chromodoris magnifica

6 - Hypselodoris decorata

7 - Samla riwo

8 - Dermatobranchus sp.

9 - Nembrotha livingstonei

10 - Phyllidiella pustulosa

11 - Paradoris liturga

12 - Phyllidiella nigra