Saturday, October 17, 2026

Recharge in Romang Nyata

I woke up very early in the morning.  We keep changing time zones so I'm not exactly sure how early it actually is.

It is so cool that we are connected to the internet.  I am able to ask the experts real time for help on the slug IDs.  Now I should be able to get them right the first time!  I have also linked to each post on iNaturalist so I can follow along to see if the ID changes over time.

Here is the itinerary for today:


I noticed that there is a poem on the bow so I looked it up.



These lines are from the concluding stanza of Henry Wadsworth Longfellow's famous 1849 poem, "The Building of the Ship".

In spite of rock and tempest's roar,
In spite of false lights on the shore,
Sail on, nor fear to breast the sea!
Our hearts, our hopes, are all with thee,
Our hearts, our hopes, our prayers, our tears,
Our faith triumphant o'er our fears,
Are all with thee,—are all with thee!

The book I am reading is set up with dates and they happen to be in October 2026.  Pretty much mimicking the exact dates of this charter.  Whoa.

I wore my nudibranch cover up dress and everyone wanted to know where I got it so I sent them to redbubble.com and apologized ahead of time… that site is a real rabbit hole.  It has merch for anything anyone is interested in.

The first dive was called “Biggie”.  I turned over a million rocks and found NOTHING.  But then... right at the end of the dive, Melki showed me this jellyfish like thing having a hard time swimming around.  It was completely transparent with some white frosting but we could see thru into it.  So freakin' weird.  My theory is that it came from down deep up to this area and couldn't swim in such shallow water.  I tried to take a picture of it, but it was too big... my camera couldn't focus.  I instead took pictures of it in chunks and let ChatGPT splice it together.  I wonder what the heck it is.  For now, I am calling it "The Alien".


I am tracking what comes out of my iNaturalist post, but I wasn't even sure where to put it in the Scientific Classification.

https://www.inaturalist.org/observations/409263425

At the end of this dive, I went ever so slightly into deco.  I definitely cleared deco at the safety stop.  When I got up, I had a message about no altitude diving for five hours.  That's so annoying.  I also got a T1 battery low message.  Thank God I brought a spare battery.  

I worked with Han to change the battery on the transmitter.  He is so kind and speaks english so well.  I should be all set now for another 300 dives or so.  Woot!  Even if the transmitter does have a problem, I now have a little PSI gage on my regulator.

Just in case, I also checked my backup dive computer and I am totally fine.  Not in deco.

I turned Han on to iNaturalist.  He is already posting a picture of a walking shark.

Unfortunately, I left my strobes in Manual mode the whole 3ish hours between dives and they didn't really work right away on the second dive.  I was able to turn them all the way off for a while and then they worked pretty well.  And the battery change worked really well on the Transmitter.  It did its job just fine.

As I changed the batteries on my strobes and focus light, I notice that my housing camera started flashing that it was low on battery.  WTF?  I think I just changed it in July.  Oh well, I have a couple spares so I will just change it out.

At lunch, there was this crazy looking fan thing that keeps the flies away from the food.  It is so cool.  I feel like everyone needs one.

At dinner they had the banana desert and I was so happy!

Quiet Queue

19 - Phyllodesmium briareum


20 - Phyllidia elegans


21 - Goniobranchus leopardus


22 - Nembrotha cristata






Wet in Wetar

Last night, the plan for today was written on the whiteboard:


We are diving air on this trip as the boat does not have Nitrox.  Therefore, our bottom time will not be as lenient as if we were on Nitrox.

There is a possibility we could do three dives today, but the plan is to only do two.

I woke up around 2am and decided to finish putting my camera together.  It was too much to finish it last night.

I am trying out my new checklist for getting the camera ready.  I never want to jump in again without my battery changed!

Early in the morning I went to set up my dive gear.

I have new fins and booties.  The booties are really buoyant so I brought my ankle weights.  I think I am going to need them for a little while.

On the first dive, I found several species of nudis.  The coral was so healthy.  We also came across a whitefin shark and a big octopus.

I put some water in my floats since that is what I was doing with my blackwater… but then I realized that my diopter was making the setup heavier.  I don’t need to put any water in my floats when I have my diopter on.  In fact, the rig is a bit too heavy.

At the end of the dive, Mariasol found a nautilus shell on the surface and brought it onto the liveaboard.  So cool and VERY lucky.

I am on boat two, but they went up when I still had a ton of bottom time, so I was invited to stick around with the third boat so I could get a longer dive in.  Yay!

Our dive guide Melki wears two different color fins.  It is pretty easy to find him.

I feel like my strobes are not lighting up the subject very well.  I need to keep tweaking.  Maybe I am also now used to the power of the Atom strobes so I feel like these MiniFlash2s aren’t so great.

On the second dive, the wrist strap on my backup dive computer that I mounted on my float broke.  Luckily I noticed exactly when it detached and I saved it and put it in the pocket which hangs off my BC.  Well, the computer itself keeps on working.

The crew has the cutest habit.  Whenever a skiff leaves, they cheer.  And then when we come back, they cheer again.  It is quite uplifting.

In the afternoon, a huge pod of spinner dolphins came alongside the boat and did some major tricks for us.  Jumping and Splashing.  It was really fun!

We also had a DJ and Alvi and Mariasol were club dancing on the bow.

It was pretty smoky on the site we pulled into for the night dive.  It was mucky and rocky but we found some cool slugs.

Nudi Species

1 - Phyllidiella sp.


2 - Goniobranchus geometricus

3 - Thuridilla sp.

4 - Antonietta sp. 1

5 - Chromodoris magnifica

6 - Hypselodoris decorata

7 - Samla riwo

8 - Dermatobranchus sp.

9 - Nembrotha livingstonei

10 - Phyllidiella pustulosa

11 - Paradoris liturga

12 - Phyllidiella nigra





Thursday, October 15, 2026

Try Try Again


If at first you don't succeed, try again.  If at second you don't succeed, try again.

The boat is already in Ambon, refueled and waiting for us.  It would be amazing if we are able to get in the water today.

I woke up pretty early and called Mom in Joplin.  We chatted for a bit.  I also drank the in room coffee but I am excited to order an iced coffee when the restaurant opens.

At 6:30am, we received this message from Graham:


That was only on hour before we needed to be ready.

I packed, showered and got an iced coffee.

Alvi and I took a taxi to the harbor.  One in a caravan of taxis.  We will be boarding the PT Pelayaran Dharma Indah Ferry which will be approximately 7 hours to Alor.

We have Executive Tickets!

We followed Graham to the vessel.



Here is the group in our movie theater seats.


On the ferry, I read 60% of my fourth book on this trip.  I napped a little and existed on a couple of little chocolate muffins I stole from the breakfast buffet and some Werther’s candy.  Does this officially put me in the grandma category now?

The ferry arrived at the pier around 5pm.  There was a cute little family where the boy was wearing a t-shirt from the Cars movie.  That is where my parents farm is along route 66.  I couldn’t resist taking a picture of him.  Then his cute little sister jumped in, so I had to take her picture too.



The little girl kept coming over to me and hugging me.  I tried to play patty cake with her and she just kept smiling.  Her Dad made a funny comment that maybe she wanted me to be her mommy.  He asked “Maybe she can come with you?”  OMG, so funny.

I got my own taxi over to the harbor and got to chatting with Peter, one of the dive guides.  Their crossing was pretty calm.  On the way they saw a blue whale.  A huge one!  So cool.

He gave me a rundown of the 18 crew members.  We are only 15 guests.

Dive guides:

• Peter

• Han

• Arfan

• Melki 

Chefs:

• Robert – Head Chef

• Eddie - Assistant Chef

Captains:

• Ardi - Captain 

• Armad - 2nd Captain 

• Iswandi – 2nd Officer

Engineers:

• Ardi

• Yansen 

• Maman 

• Borgu

Skiff Drivers:

• Fearman

• Risky 

Housekeeping:

• Ando

• Dedi 

• Olis


We had to go down some steep stairs and into skiffs over to the main boat.  


They did a lap around the boat so we could take some pictures.


They greeted us with coconut water stamped with the vessel name.  How cool is that?


Then we had a room briefing and were told our rooms.

I am in the lower cabin #1.  But I will be by myself instead of rooming with Graham.

This came about because Stephano has to return to Turkey.  His factory has flooded.  Tough break for him, but it works out for me.

The setup of the room is perfect.  I can use one of the beds for my camera gear and the other to sleep in.  There really is no camera room or table on this boat so many people are going to have cram in upstairs by the dining.  I will have so much space down in my room having the second bed to service my camera on.  I feel spoiled.




We had dinner at 7:30pm.  It was buffet style and pretty darn delicious after not really having a meal all day.

Overnight, we made the crossing to Wetar.  It was a little rough, but not too bad.  It has been a while since I have done a liveaboard instead of a resort.


 


Wednesday, October 14, 2026

A Fresh Start

I had a terrible time sleeping last night.  It was so hot in my murder room and the air was so stale.

I got up and took a couple of showers just to cool myself off so I could get sleep.  I finally drifted off and maybe got four hours.

But the desire for coffee is real.  I got on the WiFi and found a "five star" rated coffee shop a four minute walk away.  OK, I can do this.

Since I would be off WiFi and not on a network, I took screenshots of the map of how to get to Blakmok.

Then I decided to invite the others.  We met down in the lobby.  And as I was thinking about our getaway to the nicer hotel, Neo Eltari I realized that I could not get Grab taxis for all five of us and our luggage.

So when all four of them joined me, I had Rick and Jacque download Grab and walked them through how to sign up.  OK, I am proud of myself that I thought ahead.

Then we went a walking.  At least the air was moving and we were all so grateful to be out of the room.

I got us there, but not without a little detour.  However it was a very small detour and all the locals were super friendly.

I even took a screenshot of the outside of Blakmok with pink pillars and a distinctive fence design.  There weren't many pink pillars... then Jacque mentioned that maybe it was repainted.  OMG, it totally was repainted blue.  We found the place!

There was absolutely NO SIGNAGE.  And it looked like someone's house.  There was this little old lady in her seventies who was sweeping the driveway.  She barely eeeked the fence open for us and invited us in and up these really steep stairs to a room that was a very cluttered cafe, but it showed promise.

There was a true coffee machine and a price list so we were hopeful.  

But there was nobody in there and there was no barista.  Then we saw the little old lady knock on a suspicious door in the back.  We heard some rustling and wondered what was going on.

Eventually, a young guy emerged.  I think she woke him up to serve us!  OMG.

I confirmed we could pay by credit card and then we ordered three lattes and a coffee.  Each one was about 25,000 rupiah which is $1.40.  

We were SO PLEASANTLY surprised!

He made the prettiest designs on each latte.  And it tasted delicious.

Mine and Ellen's were in ceramic cups, but Jacque and Rick got theirs in plastic cups, but they took theirs to go so that was fine.

I went to pay for everyone (since it was so cheap) and he was struggling with the payment devices.  So I asked him if it was easier if I paid with rupiah... and he said yes.  So I just did that.

We sat and finished our drinks.  He then also brought cookies.

We loved it so much.  It raised our spirits so high.

Then as we went to leave, Jacque wanted to tip him more and gave him a $10 bill.  He went ecstatic!!!


We then walked back to the slaughterhouse hotel and decided to just pack up and head over to the Neo.

Once we were all back in our murder rooms, we packed everything up and met in the lobby.  I helped to ensure that Rick and Jacque got their Grabs working properly.  And then we had to bring our huge bags down these dozen stairs or so.

Jacque and I have almost the same dive bag and I grabbed hers by mistake.  But luckily I caught it before taking off.

It was almost $3 to get to the next hotel in the grab.  I started the checking and pre registered our three rooms (of the eight on hold), but they weren't able to check us in yet.  Which was OK since we need to get breakfast anyway. 

We were so happy to be at the NEO.  The food wasn't great but we were able to cobble together enough from the $4.47 buffet.  


And check out the omelette!


Some are going on a cultural tour today as well as caves and waterfalls.  Not my thing, but I may meet up with them for dinner later.  I came to dive.  If I was totally bored and rested, I might have gone.  But I am not.  I need a cool room and some rest alone.

And Graham pulled out of his magic hat... early checkin!  Yay!  I was in my room alone with a queen bed before noon.  OMG, I am so grateful.

I read my book in the pool for at least an hour.  The sky got cloudy and I actually got chilled enough to get goosebumps.  Hooray!



I came back to the room and took a REAL shower.  Then I ordered room service... an iced latte, sprite, water and a fruit platter.  I swear, that is the best thing to eat here.  The iced latte was pretty awesome too.

I had turned on the air conditioning and set it to the lowest temperature but I swear nothing was happening.  I was too tired to do anything about it.  I just laid on my bed and finished my book: When She Was Ours by Anna Nordberg.  That's book number two for this trip.  

Then I took a nap.

At 6:30pm I met David, Dennis, Todd and Rick in the lobby.  I complained to the front desk that my aircon was not working in the room and they said they would fix it.  Then we headed over in a grab to 999 Resto for dinner.  I had smoked tuna plate and then got a crazy ice cream dessert from their freezer.  It was a chocolate coated vanilla ice cream with potato chip crumbs in it.




When I got back to the hotel, I was thrilled to find that my aircon was fixed and that they had gotten it started while I was at dinner, so it was nice and cold.  Hooray!

Our flight is around noon tomorrow, so we don't have to be ready for the shuttle until 10am.


Tuesday, October 13, 2026

Try Again

We had to wake up around 2:45am to be in a van to the airport at 3:30am.  Whoa.  And the other group had to get up even earlier.

A few minutes into the drive to the airport, we got a call that Craig left his iPad at the hotel and we had to turn back to pick it up.  

Checkin took quite a long time to Super Jet Air (yup, that's the actual name of the airline).  While we were waiting this adorable little girls was playing with her remote control dump truck and kept bumping it into my shoe.  So cute.


At the counter, I got hit with almost $200 charge for excess baggage... as did everyone else.  Oh well.

There were all of these Special Olympics kids on the flight.  Many with Downs Syndrome.  They were very well behaved and wore matching travel outfits.  I wondered if they were returning back from competition in Jakarta.

We made it to Kupang.  An airport I am pretty familiar with.  I went through the transit and they put some manual tag on my bag, but I just pulled it off later.  I think they were trying to get me to gate check it.  Nope.

The other group was here already.  I got a sandwich and some juice and chatted via WiFi with my sister Kimber who is visiting my mom in Joplin.

I found out that I will be rooming with Mariasol on the liveaboard instead of Graham.  She's a sweet girl.

Then we waited.  The departure time came and went.  And waited. Another flight on a different airline to Alor took off.

We waited some more.  I read my kindle.  I even made a game to buy and eat the spiciest thing at the little shop.  No diet coke or coke zero to be found.  I just kept my mouth shut and read my book.

Then after at 3 hour delay, ours got canceled.  Just like that.  No explanation.  And when I looked at the board it said it was because of the weather.  No other flights were canceled due to weather.  Not even the other flight to Alor.

Graham rebooked us all on the next available flight to Alor on Friday 10/16.  Today is Wednesday 10/14.  We collected our bags.  We have nowhere to stay in Kupang for the next two nights.  OMG.

Graham kept looking for places and everything was booked up.  There were lots of people trying to help and really, I just asked Graham how I could help, but mostly stayed quiet and supportive.

Mariasol was supportive by pulling out bubbles and blowing them all over the baggage claim area.  She was trying to lift everyone's spirits.


We had to split up all over Kupang, but finally we all had a room for the first night.  

Rick and I were in a cab to the hotel and the cab driver had to make sure to follow the other two in front of him.  What did he do instead?  Pulled out his phone and showed us all these pictures he had with other white people.  As he was driving.  Argh!  I told him to follow the cab in front of us and to stop looking at his phone.  Well, of course they lost the first taxi and took us to the wrong location.  Oh man.

We finally made it to the hotel, RedDoorz @ Brother Homestay Kupang.  It is so nasty, but only ten dollars a night.  There was no toilet paper in my bathroom, the aircon doesn't work.  It looks like a murder was committed in here.  

But I do have my own room and Todd/Rick and Jackie/Ellen are right next door(s).

I have Grab (the Uber of Asia) on my phone and it works using WiFi, so I got on the hotel WiFi and got all five of us a grab to dinner at Taman Laut.  The car was like $1.50 to get us there.  And then dinner was like $11.  So there's that.




During dinner, this guy who worked at the restaurant came around dressed up as a lobster and danced for everyone.  


Ellen and I ordered vanilla oreo ice cream.  It was so weird!  It had big fresh slices of coconut, some little balls they called "pearls" and avocado chunks covered with chocolate sauce.  I tried it but only ate about half.



Then I got the Grab back to the hotel for the five of us.  Also about $1.50.

Today was a tough day.  I feel defeated.

The earliest we will be diving is Saturday.  That is a week and a half after I left Chicago.  And at least four days and 13 dives missed on the Liveaboard.